Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

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tenebris
Base Membership Officer, Detachment CO
Posts: 1173
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2018 1:34 pm
Name: empathy gray
2020 Troops:: 0
Total Troops: 6
501st Number: 70969
MMCC Name:: Tenebris

Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Sat Mar 02, 2019 9:33 am

Just mocking the lining......I've been extra special of late, so wanted to check it all lines up. Then real fabric (I hates real fabric).

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tenebris
Base Membership Officer, Detachment CO
Posts: 1173
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2018 1:34 pm
Name: empathy gray
2020 Troops:: 0
Total Troops: 6
501st Number: 70969
MMCC Name:: Tenebris

Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Sun Mar 17, 2019 9:07 am

So its been a while since I did a full tailored jacket in coat weight wool.........I always pick nightmare fabrics, I'm glad this one has sold out as it was a bit of a nightmare. It was slightly coated/finished and was water spotting even with with a light steam, so I hand washed it. So its thicker than I would have liked, but a fabric that spots when water touches it, is no good for trooping.

Fabric needs to be pre treated in the same way you are going to clean it, Ie washed........Lots of wool fabric is dry clean only and the American blogs suggested taking it to the dry cleaners to be steamed. No where near me will do this, you can steam shrink wool or put it in the drier with a damp towel.

Some people just don't do it, then just dry clean the garment.

https://sew4home.com/tips-resources/sew ... en-and-how


You also need to use a directional nap layout, if your fabric has a nap and be careful how you press it. Nap fabric usually needs gentle steaming and finger pressing or pressing with a clapper for wool. AlWAYS test how your fabric reacts to pressing and steaming on scraps.

https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/wo ... p-and-pile

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2011/03 ... ess-cloths

Tailors clappers:
https://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/search.php


Interling a garment:

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2009/01 ... nderlining

https://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/in ... terlining/

The way I make clothes for myself is a bit different to the norm, I've had to engineer more movement, more in the back, built in sleeve gussets etc. So there are parts of my jacket I've not fully interfaced or interlined to keep that movement......My back stay is cut on the bias. My shoulders are slightly wider and there is slightly more in the front shoulder and bust This is because without stretching my shoulder joints and being able to move and relocated my joints when I dislocate I will end up in a lot of pain and with muscular injury. Collar also has to sit slightly away from my neck or it triggers fainting......yeay!

The vertical welt pocket was a pain across the bust, so many seams to grade, I think i will only use pocketing instead of wool on the pocket lining next time....the pocket was important as its for my emergency freddo! :)

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I may remake this, I've already found a fabric I think will be a good source that won't sell out. I'm waiting on a few more samples before I post just to be sure......I'll also look at patterns for conversion.

User avatar
tenebris
Base Membership Officer, Detachment CO
Posts: 1173
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2018 1:34 pm
Name: empathy gray
2020 Troops:: 0
Total Troops: 6
501st Number: 70969
MMCC Name:: Tenebris

Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Mon Mar 18, 2019 7:14 am

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User avatar
tenebris
Base Membership Officer, Detachment CO
Posts: 1173
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2018 1:34 pm
Name: empathy gray
2020 Troops:: 0
Total Troops: 6
501st Number: 70969
MMCC Name:: Tenebris

Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Wed Mar 20, 2019 2:16 pm

Ugh app pictures....sorry about my face.

I'm hoping to do a new rank in metal, I'm just pants and need showing how to paint it. Also I'd like to upgrade with a holster at some point.

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