Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

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tenebris
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Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:24 pm

Ok so I've got the fabric and the boots are on their way....so I'm going to slowly start patterning this. I butchered the TFA fleet officer standard, as some bits are the same and there is no standard for this yet. My rambly additions are in brackets, so everyone can see what I'm working to. There are quite a few variations, but I'm doing the brown/minky jacket one.

Quick not about the VD, is that the colour's can be somewhat dark/off to the screen colours. I'll pop up some more refs later.

Most importantly what rank is Geoff, so I can outrank him this time. :lol:

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1. Jacket


(- brown/taupe/mink jacket. Fabric with a fulled/brushed texture is preferred. )(twill weave wool)

-Wrap front closing left over right with no visible closures. Left flap has a curved edge per reference photos.

-Belt is threaded through a slit in the left flap, and the buckle/closure is hidden.

(-Left side of jacket front features a princess seam , from the shoulder across the bust to the hem. On this seam approx 5 inches down is a vertical welt pocket which is aprox 5-6inches long)

(- Right side has a waist dart. )

(-shoulder has double seam detail as per ref photo's)

-Jacket back is fitted to the waist through the side seams. The bottom flares slightly.

(-Jacket has a center back seam. with two back shaping seams.)

( -overlapping shaped mandarin/shawl collar approx 6cm high ???, 3 rows of piping detail starting at top edge aprox 1cm each)

(-Sleeves have 2 seams)

2. Trousers:
-Dark brown- chocolate brown in a bottom-weight twill or similar fabric or a pant weight gaberdine. No denim.

-Pants should have a high waist and fly front.

-Worn with the pant leg tucked into boots. Pant legs should be fitted enough to tuck without excessive blousing.


4. Belt:
brown to dark brown leather belt, 2 to 2.5 inches (5 to 7 cm) wide.

(-Weathered, silver toned, solid rectangular buckle with rounded corners. Buckle should be the same width as the belt.)

-No visible rivets.

5. Boots:

– Calf high black or brown boot, featuring a Velcro strap at the top and a vertical zipper on the inside. Boots have a flat sole. (Similar to the PoZu Well 2 Boot).


OPTIONAL ITEMS
1. Screen accurate Resistance rank badge, any branch any rank.

2. gun

3. holster

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Jerrick Sunrunner
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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by Jerrick Sunrunner » Tue Jun 26, 2018 2:43 pm

Thats the Commander Rank Badge

Nice additional explanation to the standards Empathy
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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by BigFatCat » Tue Jun 26, 2018 3:25 pm

I've a commander badge, so at best you'll be equal ;)
Happiness is a warm A280. Or A300. Even a Glie-44 at a pinch.

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by dragonhawkz » Wed Jun 27, 2018 7:37 am

OK, I give in.... Love this. I'm following this big time, as I saw her too and loved the uniform.

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:13 am

Thanks Mark.......Geoff General it is then ;)

Quite a few people have said they want to this one, so I'm looking for patterns that can be converted for both ladies and gents (sewing peoples I'm wondering if a vintage 60's style jacket for gents might be an easier one to start with than the civil war Mccalls 4547 that people seem to base most jackets off).......If I can talk through the conversion hopefully more people will have the confidence to give it a try.

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Sat Jul 21, 2018 10:53 am

So I've done the first mock, with all the seam lines approx in place from the refs. Those back shaping seams need to come up a little higher and i think add a tiny bit more onto the 'epaulet' bit on the shoulder. This section could be patterned as a separate piece, but I've opted to integrate it and press the seam over slightly and top-stitch........I think it will look cleaner. Also need to drape the collar.....possibly tinker with the front panel.

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Sat Jul 21, 2018 10:55 am

Holster ref, I'm struggling to find a really clear close up shot.........this is from the VD. Looks to be fairly simple, I'm sure it's just attached by a loop. But I can't find that ref now. I might give it a bash as have some leather......and when it all goes wrong ask David :)......

Mark kindly let me have his Glie 44 when he upgraded, but I'm wondering if I need to source a different one. As the back edge looks more defined? I've just looked it up and its a Glie 44D for TLJ. Anyone got a full ref pic for one?

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Sat Jul 21, 2018 11:10 am

Boots from crowprops........based on the po-zu 'Poe' boots

If I'm honest there are a few things that niggle me, there should be a space between the top of the zip and the strap and I think they are a tad too tall, although the on screen do seem to vary in height slightly. Also The velcro strap end piece needs to be longer and the 'u' shape starts a tad too low...... Still clearable though.

In short they are accurate copies of the Po-zu Poe boot, but the Po-zu boots are not the screen worn ones. Despite everyone thinking they are. If you want them SA you would need to have them made and currently no one is offering that.

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by Gremlin » Sun Jul 22, 2018 9:33 pm

Despite the niggles you point out, I think the boots look really good, Empathy!
"Judge me by my size do not." - Master Yoda

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Fri Aug 10, 2018 12:09 pm

Couple more refs..........need to bring that back shaping seam up and in a bit, also better look at the holster.

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Wed Sep 26, 2018 7:29 am

So the guns are slightly different for each film
This is the comparision, top is TLJ, bottom is TFA (thanks to Geoff for his help with these).

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by Padme Amidala » Thu Nov 29, 2018 9:46 pm

Really like this one too Empathy. You're putting in some solid research on this one and like the patterning you've got going so far. So many nice costumes from TLJ. Crait Leia, this, Holdo.

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Fri Nov 30, 2018 8:37 am

Padme Amidala wrote:
Thu Nov 29, 2018 9:46 pm
Really like this one too Empathy. You're putting in some solid research on this one and like the patterning you've got going so far. So many nice costumes from TLJ. Crait Leia, this, Holdo.

Thank you, I feel like we really need to expand the TLJ team........nudge, nudge.

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by BigFatCat » Fri Nov 30, 2018 8:44 am

I need a higher rank badger and moar gunz.
Happiness is a warm A280. Or A300. Even a Glie-44 at a pinch.

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Re: Empathy's TLJ officer (brown jacket)

Post by tenebris » Tue Feb 26, 2019 11:53 am

So Tinkering with the fit and collar........got the collar perfect, but it triggers the fainting so moving it out a bit. There is variation in the depth of the collars on different officers. Going to make the closure edge slightly higher and round out.

From a construction point of view, I'm going to calico line one edge of the collar so I can put the piping in and it not show on the lining side......I may have to mock this to check if i can do it full with SA or not due to the bulk in the seam.

The center front edge will pull out slightly once the belt is on.....but may need a slight sloping under the beltline.

The vertical double welt (jetted) pocket in the seam was fun.....its a bit wonky as I didn't measure accurately, it was more for placement. It really need to be longer, but all the women who wear this are small busted...so for me its going right over the bust seam which is going to cause pulling and fit issues so it needs to be slightly higher and slight smaller.

Shoulder look to be quite padded, so Ill put pads and a sleeve head in, I'm struggling with balancing the interfacing with the movement I've engineered into the pattern.....but I'm getting there.


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